Entertainment Daily: Paris Fashion - Givenchy, Chloe, Ungaro & Yves Saint Laurent shows
RESTRICTIONS: music on catwalks not cleared for use. replace with your own clearable music
DATELINE: Paris, France. 10 October 2001
1. VS Givenchy Catwalk show
2. Final pass
3. Designer, Julien Macdonald comes out on stage
4. Photographers out side
5. Vs Models backstage
6. Vs Chloe catwalk show
7. SOT Vanessa Mae: "I just thought it was really, really clever you know, lots of details. I liked all the stuff where you could see through the clothes a little, it was almost like stencilling out pieces of clothing and you could see through to the bum and things like that, I thought it was clever and it was great and I liked all the white stuff, and what was great was that it was very wearable. "
8. B-Roll Chloe designer Phoebe Philo greets buyers backstage
9. Sot Amanda Ross - Market Director from Harper's Bazaar: "I was looking forward to the show all week and I have to say I was so excited by the show, I thought it was brilliant, sexy, just really beautiful, a really beautiful collection. I am very excited for Phoebe."
EMANUEL UNGARO SHOW - PARIS, FRANCE, 10/10/01
10. VS Ungaro Catwalk show
11. VS Models exciting from backstage for final pass
12. Ungaro's new designer Giambattista Valli on runway
13. B-Roll Valli backstage
14. Sot Giambattista Valli (about Mr Ungaro): "I think for me the two inspiring moments of Mr Ungaro, one was his research when he used to work for Balenciaga so all of his research on jackets, on the cut of the jackets, the kimono cut for Balenciaga that is the kind of attitude falling from the back and from the neck of the Balenciaga. So there is kind of style, this kind of attitude and there is the opposite to this, the most fluid part, the sensual part inspired by this famous collection called the Diva collection it is a collection with all white dresses with pleats like crossing along the front."
PRET A PORTER - YVES SAINT LAURENT, Paris, France 10/10/01
15. Vs exterior of venue
16. People arrive for show
17. Vs show
18. Last model fades to black
19. Sot Hilary Alexander - Daily Telegraph fashion critic: "Sexy, scintillating, curvaceous and a wonderful homage to the cat, the leopard...I think it is great, I can't wait to wear it. I have always been a great fan of animal prints, I think that they are wild and sexy and glamorous all at the same time. I think they looked great on the models, the shoes were brilliant and the whole had a raw edge because there was lots of thonging, skirts were thonged together and bikinis were made of distressed chiffon, all printed with the leopard and then occasionally there was a tribal print."
20. Yves Saint Laurent designer Tom Ford on catwalk
PARIS SAYS PASTELS AND IVORY FOR SPRING
Paris catwalks have been full of girly romance in pastels and ivory, as the spring/summer ready to wear shows continue.
Welshman Julien Macdonald's second show for GIVENCHY was a quiet, almost serene, affair, far more subdued than those of his predecessor at Givenchy, Alexander McQueen, who prefers shock and flamboyance to pretty clothes.
Macdonald, known for his wild and crazy knits for his London collections, went coy for his important Givenchy debut collection in July, creating dark, ladylike clothes that would probably have pleased Hubert de Givenchy's former customers.
This time, the clothes were perked up, like the wonderful blazing white poplin suit with skinny trousers and a long basque jacket with ruffling around the bodice.
The white swashbuckling poplin blouse looked great, too, worn with its fully gathered skirt to knee length. This, and other puffed-sleeve models, were an evident nod to the original Givenchy 'Bettina' blouse of nearly 50 years ago that had American critics in ecstasy.
Crimped looks, with twisted rope pipings were the main attraction of this show, with the detail popping up as belts, on shoulders and even around ankles.
The Welshman's love of knits was obvious too, with red fishnet tank tops, and more macrame rope effects on cotton dresses. There was plenty of black, bucking the spring/summer trend for pastels and ivory.
Meanwhile Phoebe Philo has stepped into Stella McCartney's shoes at CHLOE, and was showing her first collection since her predecessor left to start her own line.
Violinist Vanessa Mae was among those applauding the new girl on the block, who was once McCartney's assistant at Chloe.
Philo produced several lean trouser ideas without copying McCartney. Philo's designs were more studied, and less way out, though there were similarities - for instance with some billowy tops over slim pants.
Clothes incorporated stencil-style cut outs offering a glimpse of skin beneath leather, detailed wide sleeves, and plenty of ruffles.
Trousers came in hipster three quarter length jodphurs and loose flares, while shoes came with charm bracelet ties round the ankle.
EMMANUEL UNGARO has announced this week that he will be concentrating solely on Haute Couture from now on. The Ready to Wear, Diffusion and Accessory collections of the Ungaro house will now come under the remit of the designer's principal collaborator Giambattista Valli, who Ungaro has appointed Creative Director.
The UNGARO show was all about beautiful romance and fluid dresses, which is what his clients know and love. This time most of the familiar suit-tailoring was left out to concentrate on dresses and trousers with ruffled or embroidered tops.
Soft little sleeveless dresses in pastels and orange sherbet shades would suit fashion fans for a summer's night.
There was just a touch of daytime tailored wear that included fitted ivory trouser suits. The shows have made it clear that ivory is the Paris It colour for next season.
There was also plenty of sparkling beading and rhinstones, some draped over shoulders, others sewn onto basque tops and dresses with plunging necklines, for an elegantly sexy look.
Colours came in sweet pastels or autumnal deep prune and aubergine.
But the finale concentrated on Spring, with shades of pink and peach, fluttering around with touches of sparkle and ruffles on long or short dresses.
Valli took to the catwalk for his bow, then glowed about Ungaro backstage.
Tom Ford brought the animal print back to the catlwalk for YVES SAINT LAURENT, paying tribute to the leopard with outfit after outfit in floating chiffon.
There were leopard skin print tops, cross over dresses, capes and even a catsuit, all bearing the big cat's markings.
The show also offered detailed stitching on outfits, from a brown leather suit to black and white cross stitching on skirts and trousers.
Critics were impressed, giving Ford a definite thumbs up for offering something refreshingly different for next season.